Cycling the Camino de Santiago: The Summer We Rode to the End of the World

There is something mythical about the Camino de Santiago—an echo that calls travelers from all corners of the world. For years, we had dreamed of experiencing it, and one summer, we finally did. Just the two of us, our bikes, and an unstoppable desire to lose and find ourselves along the Camino Francés, the legendary route leading to Santiago de Compostela, crossing the soul of Spain. We didn’t know exactly what to expect—and in the end, that was for the best. Because cycling the Camino de Santiago isn’t something you read about in a guidebook; it’s something you live with your legs, your heart, and your eyes, which open wider every single day.

León: The Starting Point Between Gothic Spires and Tapas

Our journey began in León, a city of austere yet refined beauty. After dropping off our bags at the hotel, we wandered through the colorful stained glass windows of the Cathedral and the worn stones of the Basilica of San Isidoro. Walking along the ancient Roman walls, we soaked in the atmosphere of the Camino, meeting the first pilgrims on foot, exchanging smiles and timid words in different languages.

From the Mesetas to Astorga: Silence, Wheat, and Sky

Cycling across the Mesetas feels like stepping into a minimalist painting—golden wheat fields stretching endlessly, deep silence, and an immense sky. The wheels rolled effortlessly, and so did our thoughts. Reaching Astorga, we found ourselves in an elegant, lively city where Gothic, Baroque, and Renaissance styles coexist harmoniously in the Cathedral and the nearby Bishop’s Palace, designed by Gaudí. We indulged in a hearty dinner—resisting the artisanal chocolate and the famous cocido maragato was impossible—before enjoying a well-earned rest.

Towards Ponferrada: Templar Castles and Legendary Bridges

From Astorga, each stage became more intense. In Campo, a quiet stop at the Hermitage of Santo Cristo offered a moment of reflection, an almost mystical pause. Arriving in Ponferrada, with its imposing Templar Castle, we felt transported to the Middle Ages. We explored the historic bridges over the Boeza River, imagining the determination of pilgrims from centuries past.

The Climb to O Cebreiro: Effort, Beauty, and Spirituality

The ascent to O Cebreiro was one of the most emotional—and challenging—experiences of our Camino. With every turn, the landscape changed: green valleys, shaded paths, and crisp, fresh air. At 1,300 meters above sea level, it felt like we were touching the sky. O Cebreiro is a timeless village, with its thatched-roof pallozas and the Church of Santa María la Real, where we discovered the legend of the Holy Grail. The sensation of being part of something greater was undeniable.

Galicia: Forests, Villages, and Submerged Bridges

After the climb, the descent towards Portomarín was pure joy. The wheels glided smoothly, and Galicia embraced us with its deep green landscapes and the scent of eucalyptus. Portomarín amazed us with its fascinating history—the old village was relocated stone by stone to make way for a reservoir, and today, the Fortress-Church of San Juan stands as a sentinel of memory.

Cheese, Stones, and Encounters

The stretch between Palas de Rei, Melide, and Arzúa was filled with flavors and encounters. In Melide, we stopped for a taste of pulpo a feira, the famous Galician-style octopus served on a wooden plate, while admiring the ancient stone cross that has welcomed pilgrims for centuries. Arzúa, with its lively atmosphere and creamy DOP cheese, left a lasting impression—we still dream about it at night.

Santiago de Compostela: Tears and Smiles

Arriving in Santiago de Compostela is an overwhelming experience. The landscape grows more lush, the number of pilgrims increases, and the energy shifts. At Monte do Gozo, where we caught our first glimpse of the city, we stopped in silence, letting our eyes speak for us.

Crossing Lavacolla, where medieval pilgrims once washed before entering the city, and finally reaching Santiago’s Cathedral, felt like completing a sacred circle. We stepped inside quietly, each lost in thought. Then, we looked at each other and smiled—we had made it.

Cycling the Camino de Santiago: A Journey Within and Beyond

It’s not just a route; it’s a transformation. Cycling the Camino de Santiago teaches patience, resilience, and wonder. We slept in humble refuges, shared the road with strangers who became friends, and every evening, over a warm meal, we felt part of a small global community.

If you’re thinking of taking this journey, do it. In summer, the sun illuminates the fields, the villages come alive, and exhaustion blends seamlessly with beauty. We’d do it all over again tomorrow.