The Camino de Santiago by Bicycle: The Adventure of Four Abruzzesi

Riding the Camino de Santiago by bicycle is a unique experience, full of emotions, challenges, and deep satisfaction. In 2014, Claudio, Claudio, Antonio, and I embarked on this extraordinary adventure, pedaling from Saint-Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela and beyond—to the furthest known edge of the land: Finisterre. We covered approximately 800 km in 9 days, arriving at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, where the relics of the Apostle Saint James rest. But our journey couldn't end there: we continued to Finisterre, reaching Cabo Fisterra and the Sanctuary of A Virxe da Barca in Muxía. The Jacobean Way to Finisterre and Muxía is the ultimate embodiment of the historic pilgrim’s call: "Ultreia!" ("Let’s go further!"), to which another responds, "et suseia!" ("And higher!"). It is precisely beyond the goal of Compostela, after kneeling before the Apostle James' remains, that many pilgrims choose to push forward to the very end of the known world—completing the spiritual and symbolic circle of their journey.

The French Way: A UNESCO World Heritage Site

Among the many routes leading to Santiago, the French Way is undoubtedly the most famous. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993, this path begins in the picturesque French village of Saint-Jean Pied de Port, crossing Navarra, La Rioja, Castile and León, and finally arriving in Galicia. Traditionally divided into 33–34 stages for those walking, we decided to tackle it on our mountain bikes, covering about 4–5 stages per day, carrying backpacks and panniers to remain as self-sufficient as possible. In total, from Saint-Jean Pied de Port to Santiago, we cycled 774.7 km, overcoming an elevation gain of 13,595 meters. Continuing to Finisterre, we added another 88.2 km and 2,178 meters of elevation gain, totaling nearly 863 km and over 15,700 meters of climbing!

Our Camino: Stage by Stage

Stage 1: Saint-Jean Pied de Port – Pamplona
The first day tested us immediately with one of the toughest stages of the entire Camino. Crossing the Pyrenees via the Route Napoléon is an unforgettable experience: 25 km of climbing with a 1,500-meter elevation gain, surrounded by breathtaking landscapes. The summit greeted us with strong winds and an overwhelming sense of accomplishment. After a long descent to Roncesvalles—a place steeped in history and legends of the Battle of Roland—we entered Spain, following rugged trails to Zubiri and then Pamplona. Upon reaching the city, we stayed at the Albergue Peregrinos Jesús y María, a simple but welcoming hostel. The evening was a feast for the senses: tapas, cold beer, and the vibrant energy of a city famous for its running of the bulls.

Stage 2: Pamplona – Logroño
Leaving a large city like Pamplona can be tricky, with traffic and unclear Camino signs. Once past that, we headed towards Alto del Perdón, one of the Camino’s most iconic spots. Here, next to towering wind turbines, stands the famous sculpture of a procession of pilgrims. The descent to Estella was fast and thrilling, with a must-stop at the legendary "Fuente del Vino" at the Bodegas Irache. A free sip of wine—symbolizing hospitality and tradition—gave us the energy boost to continue. Arriving in Logroño, at the heart of La Rioja’s wine country, we were lucky to experience the Feast of Saint Matthew, with streets filled with music, food, and celebration.

Stage 3: Logroño – Burgos
Another intense day, covering five stages. From the golden vineyards of La Rioja, we entered the vast wheat fields of Castile. A short break in Santo Domingo de la Calzada, famous for the "miracle of the rooster and the hen," preceded our final push to Burgos—one of the most fascinating cities on the Camino. The Gothic Burgos Cathedral, one of the most beautiful in Europe, left us speechless. We stayed at the Albergue Municipal de Peregrinos, a short walk from the historic center, and indulged in a well-earned dinner featuring Castilian specialties.

Stage 4: Burgos – Sahagún
Entering the Meseta, the vast Spanish plateau known for its barren, endless landscapes, felt surreal. Kilometers of dirt roads, with no shade or landmarks, tested our mental and physical endurance. The day ended in Sahagún, where we found rest in a small municipal hostel, sharing stories with fellow pilgrims.

Stage 5: Sahagún – Rabanal del Camino
Leaving the Meseta, we passed through León, a city rich in history. Its Gothic cathedral and medieval walls were mesmerizing, but we had more ground to cover. After crossing the magnificent medieval bridge of Orbigo and visiting Astorga, we pressed on to Rabanal del Camino, a small mountain village, where we enjoyed a warm meal and a cozy night’s rest.

Stage 6: Rabanal del Camino – Fonfria
An epic stage along the Camino de Santiago! We tackled two mountain climbs: Foncebadón (1,504 m) and O Cebreiro (1,330 m). Challenging ascents, but with breathtaking views. We pedaled through spectacular landscapes, passing Ponferrada and Villafranca del Bierzo. The stage ended in Fonfria, where we stayed in a cozy albergue and shared dinner with fellow pilgrims.

Stage 7: Fonfria – Boente
A spectacular sunrise from O Cebreiro marked the beginning of the stage. We finally entered Galicia, with less than 50 km left to Santiago! In Sarria, the starting point for many pilgrims, the number of walkers increased dramatically. The milestone signs showed us the remaining distance to Santiago, and we stopped to take memorable photos at the 100,000 km and 50,000 km markers. The day ended in Boente, with more emotions along the journey.

Stage 8: Boente – Santiago de Compostela
Finally, we arrived at Santiago de Compostela! The majestic Cathedral of St. James welcomed us. In Plaza del Obradoiro, hundreds of pilgrims celebrated the end of the Camino. After many photos, we collected our Compostela at the Oficina del Peregrino and visited Saint James, the patron of Gallicano. But our journey isn’t over yet... unique emotions and a new stage await us.

Stage 9: Santiago de Compostela – Finisterre
After reaching the Cathedral of Santiago, we decided to continue towards Finisterre, once considered the end of the known world. The tradition of the Camino involves a bath in the ocean, purification with fire, and collecting a shell from the beach as proof of completing the pilgrimage. At the lighthouse, we left a stone as a symbol of our passage. Here, we truly understood the meaning of Ultreia et Suseia: to go beyond, always. The journey came to an end, but the emotions remain. Now we prepare to return to Saint-Jean Pied de Port, shipping our bikes to Italy and taking our return flight.

Cycling the Camino de Santiago was more than a physical journey; it was an inner transformation. A challenge, a growth opportunity, and an immersion into centuries-old tradition. And now, the pilgrim’s call still echoes within us… Ultreia!